Kerala 11th – 15th of August

A long time before the Independence Day of India which is the 15th of August, we thought about taking a day of at this day and spending an extending weekend in Kerala. Kerala is one of the states of India and is located in the Southeast of India. It is also called Godown’s country coz of its beautiful and breathtaking landscape. Well, but unfortunately we haven’t come to a decision early enough. Hence, the train to Cochin which is the capital of Kerala was completely booked out. Anyway, we would have only booked “Sleeper” to go there, coz it takes about 10 hours by train to go there. So what else to do? Ewa arranged a private bus which was supposed to be a very simple furnished bus. And yes, she was right. All together we were 21 people in the bus and now guess how many seats were in the bus? Exactly twenty one. So you can imagine how much space each of us had, especially when you take into consideration that each of us had at least one baggage with him. As for me I felt like sitting in a shoe carton also due the big guy to my left. Yes, I mean you Bijoy. You are definitely to big for such a bus ;-). During the whole journey I was pushed at the window by him. Very uncomfortable, believe me. But nevertheless, I am wondering, how I could catch quite a good many sleep, at least six hours in a row. So he first time I woke up was in the dawn. On the further way, I could fall asleep every now and then. What was very strange is once we entered Kerala there was rain, really hard rain. No wonder, ok, it is monsoon time, but the rain changed with sun and then it went back and forth, really strange. When we finally arrived in Aleppey which is located 80km in the South of Cochin, is was already 4.30pm. Hence, we spent almost 17 hours in the bus, less some peeing breaks. We could catch still some views of the famous boat race which is taken place once a year in Aleppey. About 50 men sit in each boat and row. The crowd was amazing when the competition started. They were screaming and shouting, maybe also due to the fact that quite a lot of the men around us were drunk. I couldn’t see any woman. I don’t know if is prohibited to women to attend to the boat race. After the boat race we checked in and had a dinner in a restaurant and as for me I went to bed early. The following day we spent on a house boat. The boats were built for five or six people at the most. So we had to divide ourselves into groups of six and five people. I share one boat with Simon, Ewa, Karolina and Reinier. The rain accompanied us during our whole stay on the boat. We crossed the backwaters of Alleppey. Its landscape is so unique, incredible. For those who have already been to Venice, it is similar, but in comparison to Venice, in Kerala you have no buildings around. Instead of that you are entirely surrounded by nature and nothing else. The people live in little cottages and washing their laundry in the backwaters. Every now and then, you find little shops at the shore. In one of these shops we stopped and bought some coconuts. When the people move, they always move using a boat, either a big one, which is then I would say comparable to a bus or their own private boat (car). During our stay on the house boat we had a lunch as well as a dinner and some snacks in between. It was very. The rest of the time on the boat we spent with chatting and making fun, although or maybe because it was raining most of the time. Before we had dinner some of us ventured to have a bath in the backwater. Actually, I also felt like having a bath. But I was uncertain about the safety regarding bacteria and animals. You never know what is inside. So, I remained reasonable and left dry although the others tried to persuade me. After we had dinner, all the others came to our house boat where we then celebrated a little party with music and some drinks. Unfortunately our neighbours didn’t want to be disturbed so we had to finish the party before 11pm. But nevertheless we had a nice party, even though it was too short.
The next morning then we just went back from were we started our little journey in the backwaters. But what next? We decided to go to Cochin. Deniz has been there before and told us that it would be definitely worth visiting. In Cochin we had to take a ferry to Fort Kochi which is a little island but belongs nevertheless to Cochin. Cochin consists of several islands. The main part which is on the land is called Ernakulam. In Fort Kochi then we had to find an appropriate accommodation. It was pretty difficult coz in order to check-in a lot of hotels required a passport including the visa. And unfortunately, not all of us had their passport with them. But, you can keep calm, of course, we found an accommodation. We then had lunch close to the sea. Deniz ordered craps, as for me and the others, we just ate the normal food like rice. It was quite interesting to watch him eating the craps. But for sure, he was still hungry afterwards coz there is not much meat around a crap and in addition to that it is quite a lot of work to open it so probably he was more exhausted than saturated. But for dinner I decided to have sea food as well. In the evening we attended to the famous Kathakali Theatre. It is a kind of theatre including dancing and singing of the actors who are disguised in gorgeous dressings. But not the actors sing, it is a man in the background who sings. If you are capable of understanding the language you understand the contents. If not, you are more or less lost, coz there is only a little introduction about the meaning of movements and emotions expressed by the actors. I tried to recognize some of them but I didn’t. Anyhow, it was an exciting performance. Simon and me went out for dinner alone coz in the restaurant we all wanted to have dinner, they didn’t want to prepare our sea food we bought just a few minutes before. I had 18 prawns. I tell you what, I have never eaten such a good sea food before. Some of the prawns were still alive when I bought them – incredible, isn’t it? The next morning then was Independence Day in India. The Indians celebrated their independence from the British government. Sixty years ago, it was Mahatma Gandhi who brought independence to India. For that reason, you find Mahatma Gandhi on each bank note and in probably every Indian city one big road is called Mahatma Gandhi Road. Unfortunately we didn’t see much of the celebrations. In the early morning, Deniz, Simon and me stood up in order to see the fishermen selling their sea food on the shore. It was impressive seeing them coming from the sea and selling the sea food just next to the shore. It is a kind of stock market as I know it from Germany. The fishermen just threw the alive fishes on the floor and then there was a guy shouting and offering the fishes to the restaurant owners. Before we took the ferry back to Ernakulam we paid a visit to a part of Fort Kochi, called Jew town. In former days a lot of Jews lived there. We visited the Synagogue but there was nothing really interesting to see. After having had a lunch we went to the ferry station where we then took the ferry to Ernakulam. In Ernakulam we were already awaited by our two bus drivers. Immediately we took off for Bangalore. From now on, we had an horrid trip ahead us with as for me, nearly no sleep at all. When we arrived in Bangalore at 6am, I could hardly walk any more. Although, it was really an exhausting trip to Kerala, it was worth the trouble. And maybe, I gonna go there again, coz as the citizen told, there is supposed to be a very nice beach on one of the other islands.

Hampi 28th – 30th July

At the 28th of July we went to Hampi from where the south of India and Sri Lanka were ruled centuries ago. Strictly spoken, Hampi was the capital of one of India biggest empire. But now, there are only ruins left. This time we took the train to Hospet which is close to Hampi. At the Majestic Western Railway Station of Bangalore we entered the train. In order to get on the platform we had to cross the railways and even a train standing on the precedent platform. In Germany that would be unimaginable but in India nobody bothered about that fact. We had booked “sleeper” what meant that we had very simple furnished seats which could be used as a bed as well. Of course, it was no separated part in the train we had. Everybody could edge his way through the narrow passages. And there was no bed sheet distributed, of course. The train was delayed but that´s nothing unusual in India. They are always late. It was the 10.40pm when we left Bangalore with destination Hospet. From now on, it would take about 8 hours to go to Hospet which is only about 500km far away from Bangalore. So you have an imagination about the speed of the train. Due to the fact that it was already very late and I worked the whole day I tried to fall asleep at once. But unfortunately my bed was a little bit too small and the other passengers, in particular the Indians were snoring the whole night. It sounded like a hippopotamus when it is hunt. Hence, I just slept some hours during the journey. I woke up in the dawn and enjoyed the view out of train. The doors of the train are easily to open and it is ok, so I did it and also did some train surfing. The landscape is really great, .all around the railways palm trees fringed the railway.
As we finally arrived in Hospet this fucking bargaining with the rickshaw drivers started again. You can not avoid. But in the meanwhile I don’t bother any more. For me it has become a game in a certain way. You ask for the price, they say an unrealistic price and the party starts. There are so many, so you can be sure that one of those will take you, no problem At the ending then we paid 90 Rupees from Hospet to Hampi which was in my opinion really a good price. In Hampi we stayed in Shanthi Guest House which is quite a traditional and peaceful accommodation. I shared the room with Felix, another German. We had shared toilets and showers for the whole guests of the house. Before we went out for sightseeing, we had a breakfast at the Mango tree, a quite nice restaurant, located near the Tungabhadra River. From there we had a beautiful view over the landscape of Hampi while we were having our breakfast. In addition to that there is a swing hanging down from a huge mango tree.
Of course, all of us used it. The dishes, by the way are served on a banana leaf, really great. And to go to the Mango tree you have to go through a banana plantation. After our breakfast first we visited Queen’s bath where they have taken their baths in former times. It must have been fun to them swimming in the bath at that time, I can imagine. After that, we went to the impressive Vittala Temple. It is definitely the highlight of the Hampi ruins. It has become a World Heritage and purists are gasping to maintain it and protect it of collapsing. The pillars of Vittala Temple make a nice sound once you hit them, incredible. In the middle of the expanse of the Vittala Temple there is an ornate stone chariot. Its wheels were capable of turning in former days. Our last temple for today was not really a temple, though there are quite a lot in Hampi. But due to its appearance the Elephant stable looks like one. Here the state elephants resided. On the courtyard there is also the Lotus Mahal, a pavilion which was built of a great synthesis of Hindu and Islamic styles. In the late afternoon we then visited the Virupaksha Temple in the main city. There I met Lakshmi again, the adorable temple elephant who I got to know in the morning already. She is really a beautiful animal and was decorated with flowers and paintings on her forehead. Once you give one Rupee to her attendant she blesses you by touching your forehead with her trunk. Our first day in Hampi then finished with a dinner at Mango tree Restaurant
The second day then we went to the Hanuman Temple, also known as Monkey Temple, coz there are a lot of cheeky monkeys fringing the way upstairs to the temple which located on the summit of a hill. From above we enjoyed the view over Hampi, quite striking. It was really exhausting to soar up, in particular .coz it was so hot at that day. On our way to the hill we crossed some rice fields which were fringed by palm trees. It was very impressive to see how they cultivate rice by submerging the fields. To do that they use a quite interesting drain system, so that every field can be submerged, no matter were it is located. To go the Hanuman Temple, first we had to cross the Tungabhadra River. We did that by using two little boats which looked like big nutshells. It was a kind of little adventure when we had problems to get back and had to get out of this nutshell in the middle of the river. As I have read in the Lonely Planet recently you have to pay 20 Rupees to cross the river. Guess what each of us paid – 150 Rupees! We should have read the Lonely Planet prior to our trip to Hampi, then we would have saved a lot of money. I am sure, the guys went home and celebrated for the next 5 few days after having done their job. But I don’t bother about it. The Indian nationals have certainly a much more difficult life than we have and hence, we did a kind of welfare. When we went back to our accommodation we watched some more temples but they were not as interesting as the ones we had already visited. Due to the fact that I had some money left I bought a nice casual Indian pant. After our dinner then we took the rickshaw back to Hospet where we then took the train to Bangalore. When we arrived in Bangalore, it was already 6.30am. But fortunately this time I could sleep quite good coz my bed this time was much longer than on the way to Hampi two days before. At Robertson House I took then a shower and went to work. So, that was the week-end in Hampi. I can only recommend you to go there, when you are in India once, it is really a nice place. But avoid to be cheated by the rickshaw drivers and the guys at the river ;-)

Mamalapuram 14th – 16th of July

When I arrived back from work on Friday only one hour was left to pack my baggage for the next trip. This time we planned to go to Mamalapuram, a little coast town between Chennai and Ponticherry, located at the east coast of India. At 9.30p.m then we took off for Majestic bus station. Ricardo arranged the tickets during the week. We went to Mamalapuram with 11 people. In Mamalapuram then Maarten, Gaya, Maria and Carolin would join us. They have been to Ponticherry already the day before. As our bus didn’t take off at Majestic, we had to take a little bus to the City Market, from where we took off for Chennai at 11.30p.m.. The bus was really packed. On the roof they have fastened so many baggages and I don’t know what else - really incredible. Therefore, the height of the bus was added by 2 meters. The night then was so boring. Well, we tried to sleep, but as for me, I didn’t manage to sleep. Also in the strength of the noice the bus made. Whenever the bus driver accelerated the bus made such an indefinite noice, it was roaring like bulls in a stampede. I slept 2 hours maybe but not more. So the most time of the journey to Chennai I listened to some music, I have put on my bend drive. At 6a.m. we arrived in Chennai. It is really an awful city. As soon as we went out of the bus there was a stinky smell in the air. Simon recommended booking the tickets for Bangalore first. There were so many travel agencies at the bus station so we thought we would have the choice between several offers. But there we were wrong. I was so tired of bargaining that I let the others negotiating the price. It was impossible to get a reasonable price. So, at the ending, we decided to take a bus for 600 Rupees. At least it would be an air-conditioned bus. After having booked the tickets we went to the local bus station to get the bus for Mamalapuram. It was typical Indian bus, no doors, no glass in the windows, very simple furnished. But it is cool, you should take a bus such like that when you are in India one day, it is fun, especially if you sit in the back. We paid 22 Rupees for the bus. Usually the money is collected by an officer during the journey. I really enjoyed the journey to Mamalapuram. I sat next to a window and thus I could see the whole life of Chennai, very striking. When we left Chennai, we took a road along the bay. Hence, every now and then I could catch a view to the sea. The landscape is really nice, completely different to the landscape I have seen in India down to that day. Here you find palm trees and beautiful beaches. In fact, it is how you would imagine that the South Sea looks like. After 2 hours in the bus we arrived in Mamalapuram. It is a beautiful little coast town. But nevertheless, here also, you find the typical Indian clichés like cows and garbage in the streets, beggars and so on. Mamalapuram was submerged by the tsunami in December 2004. But nowadays you don’t see anything more of that event even though it was badly destroyed the tsunami. In the strength of its proximity to the beach we decided to check in in the hotel called Sri Lakshmi. We paid 200 Rupees per room. So due to the fact that it were double room, each of us paid 100 Rupees. After a little lunch we went to the beach for the whole afternoon and went swimming. The water was very clear, there was no garbage or anything comparable in the water. In addition to that there were really good waves. So it was fun. The beach is, except for some areas, where the Indians throw their garbage, very nice and even fantastic. In Mamalapuram, there are still some fishers who go fishing with a little boat and a net, exactly how the Europeans went fishing decades or even centuries ago. The weather during the whole day was very hot and what was even worst, very sultry. I could drink the whole day long, believe it was like a furnace, nearly unbearable. As a result of that, I have sunburnt my back. In the evening it was entirely red and already started hurting. As it were off season in Mamalapuram (monsum time) there were not much people on the beach. So we were surrounded by two ladies who wanted to sell blankets, shells and so on. They were quite nice and so I had a little conversation with them and Ceasar tried to hire them or at least one of the two as a waitress coz we wanted to drink an icy cold beer at the beach but nobody wanted to go in the city and buy some bottles. Unfortunately, Caesar didn’t make it although we would have paid a tip of 50 Rupees and so Ricardo had to go after we had drawn lots. But it was quite funny to see him bargaining with these two ladies. In the late afternoon a drunken Spanish guy invited us to his house for a dinner. We didn’t take him for serious and didn’t go there then in the evening. Hopefully, he hasn’t cooked for us. Some of us wanted to eat fish for dinner, so we went to one of the numerous sea food restaurants. There they displayed half a dozen fishes on a simple plate, not even cooled with ice. Actually, I was interested in eating a fish as well, but as I inquired which fish exactly is going to be served and he answered this one and showed with his finger on the fish lying on the plate, I refused by saying "no thanks". After dinner then, we went on the beach and had some drinks all together. At beach a lot of people were sleeping, I don’t know whether in the strength of the sultry air or due to the fact that they had no house. But we had to pay attention that we didn’t fall above anyone. When I went home, I felt asleep at once.
The next day then we did some sight - seeing. Actually, there is not much to see in Mamalapuram, but nevertheless, you have to see these trifles. So first, we went a little bit around the coast, saw one of the ancient temples of India, but only its outside, coz we had to pay an admission of 250 Rupees, whereas the natives are charged only by 20 Rupees. In the city then we went on a little hill, where we also found some little temples and a very huge stone. I would say, he was 4 times higher than me. A native, to whom I spoke, told me that the stone is here due to a tsunami which happened centuries ago. From the hill we had a fantastic view over Mamalapuram and its beach. When we descended the hills, I had a coconut drink. I really felt like being on the South Sea. The only thing that was missing, were some young girls dressed in bikini around me ;-). The afternoon then we spend on the beach again and as for me, I spend also some minutes among the swimming pool. On the beach I bought a dhoti, a traditional India n dress for men. But to tell the truth, it is nothing else but a kind of fabric which is wrap around your hips. But it is traditional, as well as the saree for women. And now, it belongs to me :-). At 5p.m. we wanted to take the crowded bus to Chennai. We all sat in the bus already but then they told us that it would be broken. So what could we do? Of course, there would be another bus leaving Mamalapuram for Chennai but you can imagine how crowded this bus would have been. Therefore, we decided to take the hotel bus which was definitely much more comfortable than the public bus would have been. We told the hotel manager that we want to leave Mamalapuram at 8p.m.. But Indian comprehension of time is different from ours. That will mean, we left Mamalapuram at about 8.45p.m.. So we were not really in a hurry, coz I bus would take off at 11.15p.m.. And in consideration of the traffic in the big cities, it was not certain that we arrive on time. But we had a good and crazy driver, so that we made the bus without problems. On time at 11.15p.m., we left this ugly Chennai for Bangalore. Fortunately; I could sleep the whole journey back to Bangalore. When we finally arrived at Robertson House is was already 7a.m.. Hence, I decided to keep awake and take a shower coz in approximately one hour I would be picked up.